Capacity Development and international reference framework ... · Capacity Development and international reference framework for chemical ... UNEP Responsible Production Toolkit UNIDO

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Capacity Development and international

reference framework for chemical

management in the textile value chain

H. Krist, Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale

Zusammenarbeit, Germany

H. Krist, Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale

Zusammenarbeit, Germany

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Action Title Was ist die Kernbotschaft der Folie?

Subtitle: Was ist zu sehen?

With the help of Capacity Development Measures, change processes

can be supported

16.09.2016 2nd Summer School on Sustainable Chemistry, Lüneburg

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Potential solutions

2nd Summer School on Sustainable Chemistry, Lüneburg 16.09.2016

• Standards, international reference framework

• Best Available Techniques (BAT); Best Environmental Practice (BEP)

• Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL); Restricted

Substances List (RSL)

• Improvement and enforcement of national legal frameworks

• Substitution of SVHC, development of `Green Chemicals List´

• Integrated environmental protection along the global textile value chain

• Systematic capacity development and technical assistance

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Target groups


• Producing companies in the sourcing countries, who have committed to

sustainable chemicals management initiatives

• International brands and retailers, who integrated CM into their risk

management strategy

• Local suppliers, who have to comply to international supplier codes

• Local service providers, consultants and master trainers

• Factory trainers

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Existing Training Tools I


Organisation Toolkit(s)

UNEP Responsible Production Toolkit

UNIDO Chemical leasing

PRE-SME

ILO, WHO & others Control banding and Toolbox for Decision

Making in Chemicals Management by the Inter-

Organization Programme for the Sound

Management of Chemicals (IOMC)

UNITAR Global Harmonized System of Labelling and

Packaging (GHS) training courses

WHO Listing of publications and projects on risk

assessment methodology by the International

Programme on Chemical Safety (IPCS)

IFC / Worldbank Environmental, Health, and Safety (EHS)

Guidelines

http://chemicalleasing-toolkit.org/node/36

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Existing Training Tools II


Organisation Toolkit

OECD www.oecd.org/env/ehs/

ICCA www.icca-

chem.org/ICCADocs/ICCA_Regulatory_toolbo

x_inter.pdf

http://www.oecd.org/env/ehs/

http://www.icca-chem.org/ICCADocs/ICCA_Regulatory_toolbox_inter.pdf




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Textile waste water

effluent, Faisalabad,

Pakistan, 2016


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Systemic focus

Organisational aspects

Economic efficiency

Environmental performance

Capacities for implementation

improved

Quantities of waste, air emissions and

waste water reduced

Cost savings and increased

productivity

Risk to safety and health reduced

Profitability

Compliance with

national and

international law

standards, codes

Integration into

ISO 9000, ISO14001,

OHSAS 18001,...

Conformance to

customer

requiremenmts

Targets of capacity development

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Steps

Check

relevance

Baseline

Material

flow

analysis

Definition

of further

action

Focus on

priority

areas

Prepare

and take

action Planning

next steps

Assess

progress

and

results

Month After 6 - 9 month

Initial interaction

Macro-analysis

Intermediate meeting

Micro-analysis

Concept planning

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Inventory,

flowchart, floor

plan, NPO

Control

Banding

Check lists;

Eco mapping;

Risk

inventory

sheet

Goals,

options,

cost/benefits

Monitoring/

Anchoring

Action Plan

Initial review/

awareness/

commitment

CHEMICAL

MANAGEMENT

CYCLE

OF CHANGE

Ready for

change

Understand/

review

situation

Identify &

assess

hazards/risks

and losses

Analyse

gaps,

causes and

collected

data Develop

and select

measures

Implement

improvement

measures

Evaluate and

integrate

1

2

3

4

5

6

Page 11 2nd Summer School on Sustainable Chemistry, Lüneburg 16.09.2016

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Trainingmeasures for:


(a) Local trainers and advisors,

(b) Employees from companies, accompanied by 4 - 6 month advisory

service.

(c) Training of local trainers will be performed by mastertrainers

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Reduction in Paint Losses During Printing

Carpets, Egypt Emission of chemicals to the environment

supply

products

Process-water

treatment

emission to air

deposition sewage sludge

to soil

emission to

surface water

marine water

Wastewater

waste to landfill or

incineration: emissions to

water, air and soil

= NPO

= NPO

= NPO

Sewage treatment plant


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Chemicals Inputs to wet processes- example cotton


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Chemical

Management

issues and

elements

Legal

register

• National and other

laws and

regulations

• Standards, codes

Material flow

accounting

• Process flow

diagram

• Chemical

trajectory

• NPO identification

Chemical

inventory

• Safety data sheets

• Classification of

hazards and bands

Chemical risk

analysis

• Transport

• Procurement

• Storage

• Internal handling

• Production

• Delivery of

products

• Off-site

Hazard and

risk mapping

• Inventory of risks

• Mapping of risks

Communication

and reporting

• Chemical safety

reports

• Chemical

management

performance

reports

Performance

assessment

• Review of chemical

management

performance

Emergency

preparedness

and response

planning

• Emergency plan

• Emergency

prevention

activities

• Emergency

response

preparedness

activities

Chemical risk

management

action

• Action plans

• Training needs

assessment and

plans

• Performance

indicators

• Knowledge

management and

training

• Procedures

Chemicals Management – Factory level

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Partnership on Sustainable Textiles


• The German Federal Ministry of Economic Cooperation and Development

(BMZ) has initiated the Partnership on Sustainable Textiles in October 2014

to respond to the need for sustainable production and consumption as well as

to the increasing awareness of citizens and civil society.

• The main targets of the Partnership on Sustainable Textiles are the following:

to improve social standards,

establish environmental standards,

include sustainable management of chemicals in the textile value chain,

the substitution of hazardous chemicals by 2020 through a strategy on

zero discharge of hazardous chemicals,

through adequate capacity development and technical assistance, the

Partnership will support the manufacturers in producing countries to

comply with the agreed standards.

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Commitment of Brands and Retailers


Many brands and retailers are aware of their responsibility for people and

the environment.

• In line with a long-term sustainability program they recognize the urgent

need to minimize the emission of all hazardous chemicals.

• Front runners are committed to prevent pollution and aim at zero

discharge of all hazardous chemicals along their supply chain until no

later than 2020.

The two major initiatives:

• DETOX campaign, initiated by Greenpeace with the target to phase out

hazardous chemicals in the textile value chain by 2020.

• ZDHC Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals, a group of major

producers and brands which are committed to the 2020 goal.

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• There are too many different standards (currently about 250 different

standards for textile chemical restrictions in final product); harmonization

and standardization urgently needed.

• One requirement for all detox companies.

• Green chemical act by governments to develop greener chemicals at

competitive prices.

• One workable standard.

• One standard requirement.

• One MRSL and RSL.

Reference Framework


Page 19 2nd Summer School on Sustainable Chemistry, Lüneburg 16.09.2016

Targets and Measures:

• Development of international agreed trainingmodules and guidelines.

• Strengthening training capacities in the sourcing countries.

• Improved availabilty of well trained staff.

• Dissemination of best available techniques.

Potential Partners:

• Federal Agency of Environment, UNIDO, UNEP

• ODA projects and initiatives

• Local universities and training institutes

• Brands, retailers and producers

Development of national Expert networks in

Sourcing countries

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International Framework

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Thank you very much for your attention.

Bündnis für nachhaltige Textilien (G100)

Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH

Eschborn and Bonn / Germany

E [email protected]

www.textilbuendnis.com

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.textilbuendnis.com/

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Capacity Development and international reference framework ... · Capacity Development and international reference framework for chemical ... UNEP Responsible Production Toolkit UNIDO