Decanter Report - Kapweine · 2020. 10. 9. · Points 94. Luddite, Shiraz, Bot River, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2014 . On a different register, this has a deep, furry earthiness,

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Decanter Report Decanter UK meint, dass Südafrika nach Frankreich die erste Wahl für Syrah ist! Wenn man sich die Selektion mit den 93 bis 98 Punkten bewerteten südafrikanischen Syrah’s so anschaut liegen Decanter wohl richtig. Dazu kommt das oft phänomenale Preis-Genuss Verhältnis. Ein Grund mehr, sich als Syrah Liebhaber ein paar dieser langlebigen Top-Weine in den Keller zu legen. Etliche davon finden Sie bei uns. Hier unser gesamtes Syrah / Shiraz Sortiment>>

Syrah vs Shiraz: 30 great buys from South Africa Bericht aus dem Print Magazin

A blind tasting of 78 top South African examples of this well-loved, spicy variety proved both rewarding and revealing for Matt Walls, who found that styles fell into two distinct camps. Here he narrows it down to his top 30 picks from the savoury, Syrah-styled school

For Premium Members only: https://www.decanter.com/premium/south-african-syrah-vs-shiraz-30-great-buys-445121/ subscribe to Decanter here: https://www.decanter.com/ Matt Walls October 6, 2020

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• Highlights • Magazine: November 2020 Issue • Tastings Home

Consider how frustrating it must be as a winemaker to have the terroir to produce light, fresh, fragrant

Syrah but being forced to call it Shiraz on the label. Sure, it’s the same grape, but the stylistic

difference it implies is immense.

Andre Van Rensburg was the first South African winemaker to apply to use this synonym for his

iconic Stellenzicht, Syrah 1994; prior to that, calling it Shiraz was the only option. Since then, more

and more South African winemakers have been producing wines in a classic, Rhône-like Syrah style,

as opposed to a traditional Australian Shiraz style.

Today, the quality is so convincing that you’d be mad to ignore them.

Of the 78 premium South African Syrah and Shiraz wines I tasted, the most exciting wines were

almost all labelled Syrah. They tended to have a fresher, more drinkable, more savoury expression, and

ultimately it was this stylistic difference that directed my final choice of just 30 wines.

Richard Kelley MW of UK importer Dreyfus Ashby has 25 years’ experience of working with South

African wineries, and says that among Cape winemakers ‘no one really looks at Australia as a Shiraz

benchmark anymore’. The new generation of winemakers have a lighter touch in the cellar that gives

these wines more precise aromatic detail and a stronger sense of place.

‘There’s something of a stylistic split between the new wave of producers and the old guard,’ says

Christian Eedes, editor of Winemag.co.za. ‘The former favour early picking, whole-bunch

fermentation and minimal intervention, and the latter opt more for fruit power, heavier extraction and

more obvious oak. Both camps have their followers.’

Rather than a diversification in style, I suspect that what we’re witnessing here is an important

evolution: it’s hard to imagine any producers of contemporary South African Syrah going back to

making traditional Shiraz.

Finesse and complexity

Of course, not all the Shirazes I tasted were disappointing or unpleasant; far from it. Exceptional

examples included Dewaldt Heyns’ flamboyant Weathered Hands Shiraz, the powerful, velvety

Eagle’s Nest and fine, fluid Cederberg. The 30 wines I’ve selected here, however, will appeal to those

who tend to buy St-Joseph more frequently than Barossa.

Just as there is no single style of Shiraz, within those wines identifying as Syrah there was an

enjoyable variety: whispering finesse from Lukas van Loggerenberg, Burgundian sophistication from

Richard Kershaw and savoury complexity from Boekenhoutskloof.

It’s worth mentioning that the use of the term Syrah or Shiraz on the label has no official or legal basis,

it’s simply the decision of the producer – and it doesn’t always align with what’s in the bottle. I tasted

a lot of wines labelled Syrah that shouted Shiraz in the glass.

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‘After France, South Africa is the go-to country for Syrah’

When it comes to regionality, cooler climates such as Elgin, Elim, Sutherland-Karoo and in particular

Bot River are all producing very fine examples.

Nearly half the wines I tasted came from warmer Stellenbosch, where style and quality vary wildly –

the best were from cooler corners, such as the Upper Blaauwklippen Valley and Polkadraai Hills.

Despite its hotter climate, Swartland had a higher hit-rate than Stellenbosch, delivering memorable

wines of strong character.

This was a thrilling tasting which confirmed my belief that, after France, South Africa is the go-to

country for Syrah. Though California also has many enticing examples, South Africa offers better

value for money, with plenty to choose from around the £20 mark. Some of these wines are still clearly

underpriced, so now is the time to explore.

Matt Walls’ 30 top South African Syrah wines

Points 98

Porseleinberg, Syrah, Swartland, South Africa, 2017

At KapWeine for CHF 79.00 per bottle instead CHF 99.00

This Swartland property is owned by Boekenhoutskloof but run independently by

gifted winemaker Callie Louw. Alive and dynamic, this soars out of the glass, a

touch of firework smoke to the vibrant berry fruits. Incredible energy and elegance

on the palate, great freshness and focus, tiny tensile tannins and zesty...touch of

firework smoke to the vibrant berry fruits. Incredible energy and elegance on the

palate, great freshness and focus, tiny tensile tannins and zesty...

https://shop.kapweine.chmailto:[email protected]://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/swartland/porseleinberg-syrah-swartland-south-africa-2017-42398https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/swartland/porseleinberg-syrah-swartland-south-africa-2017-42398https://shop.kapweine.ch/porseleinberg-boekenhoutskloof-2017https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/swartland/porseleinberg-syrah-swartland-south-africa-2017-42398




Points 97

Richard Kershaw, Clonal Selection Syrah, Elgin, 2017

At KapWeine for CHF 54.90 per bottle – as of February 2021

This has a gorgeous, lifted nose that combines perfumed fruit and oak spice to

heady effect. Soft, plush and fresh on the palate, with pinpoint raspberry acidity and

lingering rose perfume. It’s matured in barriques and 500-litre French oak barrels,

half new, the other half recently used – the oak...

Points 96

Damascene, Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018


A new label brought out by Jean Smit, former winemaker at Boekenhoutskloof.

Aromatically this is disarmingly lovely: violet, rose and cedar-box lift. Only just

medium-bodied but has real presence and intensity on the palate – it’s electric! The

tannins are fine yet intensely grippy, the acidity is sizzling and there’s...

https://shop.kapweine.chmailto:[email protected]://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/elgin/richard-kershaw-clonal-selection-syrah-elgin-2017-42399https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/elgin/richard-kershaw-clonal-selection-syrah-elgin-2017-42399https://shop.kapweine.ch/weine?weingut=218&selectedEq=%7B%22category%22%3A%5B%22418%22%5D%7Dhttps://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/damascene-syrah-stellenbosch-south-africa-2018-42400https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/damascene-syrah-stellenbosch-south-africa-2018-42400https://shop.kapweine.ch/damascene-syrah-2018https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/elgin/richard-kershaw-clonal-selection-syrah-elgin-2017-42399https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/damascene-syrah-stellenbosch-south-africa-2018-42400




Points 96

Keermont, Steepside Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2016

A steeply sloping Syrah vineyard planted in 2005, red clay loams over granite. It

has the same generosity as Keermont’s Topside cuvée on the palate , but is

straighter and less rich in style, and the fruit is a little darker – less sunny and more

dappled, with a shot...

Points 95

Beaumont, Dangerfield Syrah, Bot River, Walker Bay, 2017

This has an earthy, savoury side that brings to mind the Pinot Noirs of

Martinborough in New Zealand. About one third whole-bunch fruit, and matured in

French oak, 25% new. A creamy lick opens the black cherry and thyme nose.

There’s firm, fruity acidity running through the blood-tinged fruit and...

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Points 95

Reyneke, Reserve Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/reyneke.asp

Reyneke makes beautifully crafted wines from its biodynamic farm, and this is a

great success. There’s a cranberry crunch to the blackberry fruit and a whiff of

white pepper. It has a lovely sense of vibrancy and feels harmonious already. A

little toastiness adds length and complexity. Enlivening and pure,...

Points 95

Gabriëlskloof, Syrah on Sandstone, Bot River, 2017

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/gabrielskloof.asp

Extraordinary nose: flint and hot sand; lifted, sparky perfume of rose and raspberry.

Gentle to start, becoming enjoyably weighty on the palate, the tannins are

exceedingly fine. The gently raised alcohol on the finish is offset by a peppery herbal

basenote from the 30% whole-bunch fruit. Fruit density, lithe texture,...

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Points 95

Keermont, Topside Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2016

This sister vineyard to Steepside was planted in 2006 on granite and sandstone. Sun-

warmed berry aromas with cedar and cigar box. Dark plum and cinnamon bring to

mind a plum crumble. Medium-bodied but generous, with soft, palate-coating

tannins and a fine beam of acidity. A very smart wine, it captures...

Points 94

Lismore, Syrah, Cape South Coast, South Africa, 2017


Attractively perfumed nose that’s dominated by raspberry and cranberry, with a

deep peppery spark. Well-judged oak. Medium weight on the palate, with quite

marked acidity, the alcohol is noticeable but not distracting. There’s an inner sappy,

almost balsamic note too. A beautifully judged wine that is approachable

immediately, and should...

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Points 94

Leeuwenkuil, Heritage Syrah, Swartland, South Africa, 2017

At KapWeine for CHF 49.00 per bottle

This estate dates back to 1693; Leeuwenkuil means ‘lion’s lair’. Its Heritage Syrah

is a blend of two of its best schist vineyards. Very Rhône-like in style, there’s a

smoky, slightly animal note hiding in the undergrowth. It’s only just medium-

bodied but has real impact and textural force on the...

Points 94

Luddite, Shiraz, Bot River, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2014

On a different register, this has a deep, furry earthiness, smelling of warm burrows

and brambles. It’s generous, intense in fruit, and deeply tannic. The alcohol is high.

Described as Shiraz, it has that concentration, but teamed with the savouriness of

more classical Syrah, almost like a robust, hot-vintage Cornas....

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Points 94

Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, Schist Syrah, Swartland, 2017

At KapWeine for CHF 109.00 per bottle instead of CHF 119.00

You can smell the schist: perfumed but sparky, packed with petrichor and

potpourri. Rounded and generous, this builds to a crescendo, the succulent tannins,

ripe fruit and keen acidity coming together with a flourish. Very long, deeply

inlaid with oak spice. Freshness and power combined. Aged for 12 months in...

Points 94

Boekenhoutskloof, Syrah, Swartland, South Africa, 2017

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/boekenhoutskloof.asp

Some real interest here! It’s young, but its various aromatic registers point to future

complexity: black fruit, pomegranate, black pepper, oregano, rose... but still on the

closed side for now. Medium to full, good energy and tension, finishing dry and

grippy – it’s more tannic than many South African Syrahs....

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Points 94

Van Loggerenberg, Graft Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, 2019

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/vanloggerenberg.asp

Pure Syrah this year, no Cinsault as in previous vintages. Super-fresh, floral style

with discreet lily, violet and rose aromas above a ripe raspberry core. Light-bodied

and transparent on the palate, it’s an almost naked expression of the grape. Whole-

bunch fermented but no rusticity of tannin; one third new oak,...

Points 94

The Foundry, Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2007

A tribute to the skill of Chris Williams, long-time winemaker at Meerlust who also

makes The Foundry. It’s still a vibrant, deep ruby colour, even after 13 years!

Tasting beautifully mature now, it boasts deep drafts of menthol, fresh earth and

liquorice. Still powerful and fresh, with good fruit and...

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Points 93

Blank Bottle, Oppie-Koppie, Western Cape, South Africa, 2017

A blend of 90% biodynamic Voor-Paardeberg Syrah, Swartland Syrah and a little

Breedekloof Cinsault, with 80% whole-bunch fruit used. Beautiful fluidity on the

palate, flooded with very ripe blackberries and Szechuan pepper. It sits up straight

on the palate, showing a real sense of alertness and brightness. Tightly wound and...

Points 93

De Trafford, Blueprint Syrah, Stellenbosch, 2017

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/detrafford.asp

Intense blueberry and blackberry aromas backed up with violets and white pepper.

It’s medium-bodied but has great precision, impact and focus. The acidity is marked

and carries the blueberry fruit through to a long, tapered finish. Tannins are very

fine. Refreshing, drinkable and very well balanced, and there’s no over-reliance...

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Points 94

Minimalist, Stars in the Dark, Elim, Cape Agulhas, 2019

Whole-bunch fermented then aged in large old oak barrels, the steminess is a major

characteristic of the aromatic profile at this stage, bringing to mind peppery herbs

like oregano to join ripe fruit in the background. Light-bodied and brisk on the

palate, with a good sense of freshness, and decent...

Points 93

Jordan Wine Estate, The Prospector Syrah, Stellenbosch, 2017

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/jordan.asp

Gentle and pure with a smoothly polished texture, this is a measured, precise style

of Syrah. Plenty of black berry fruits, and a lingering wisp of smoke in the

background. Very assured winemaking, aged for 16 months in barrel, 85% French

and 15% American oak. Great value.

https://shop.kapweine.chmailto:[email protected]://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/cape-agulhas/minimalist-stars-in-the-dark-elim-cape-agulhas-2019-42418https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/cape-agulhas/minimalist-stars-in-the-dark-elim-cape-agulhas-2019-42418https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/jordan-wine-estate-the-prospector-syrah-stellenbosch-2017-42416https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/jordan-wine-estate-the-prospector-syrah-stellenbosch-2017-42416http://kapweine.ch/weingut/jordan.asphttps://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/cape-agulhas/minimalist-stars-in-the-dark-elim-cape-agulhas-2019-42418https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/jordan-wine-estate-the-prospector-syrah-stellenbosch-2017-42416




Points 93

Driefontein, Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017

This Syrah has a good sense of fluidity; it’s not overly extracted or full. Blueberries

and blackcurrants meld to a laser-like berry acidity. Impressively long, and has a

certain authenticity of aroma and a transparency to it that makes for a very

drinkable Syrah, despite its intensity.

Points 93

Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, Syrah, Swartland, 2016

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/mullineux.asp

Love this nose – so unmistakably Syrah in its fresh juniper, Provençal herbs and floral

raspberry fragrance. It’s a super-fresh, drinkable style that’s very well balanced with

plenty of fluidity and no overt thickness of texture. Beautifully detailed, crisp tannic

lines, and while it’s not long it’s very satisfying, with...

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Points 93

Mount Sutherland, Sutherland-Karoo Syrah, 2016

At 1,500m altitude, Sutherland-Karoo is the highest and coolest wine-growing

region on the African continent. This clay-and shale-grown Syrah has an intriguing

nose that keeps you coming back: herbal bitters, white pepper and thyme. It’s

medium-bodied, with a lovely smooth texture, bright acidity and a great sense of

tension. A...

Points 93

Kleinood, Tamboerskloof, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2016

Perfectly harmonious and balanced already, this is a muscular wine (with 5%

Mourvèdre, 1% Viognier) of serious heft: the tannins rise and swell on the palate

then gently fall like an intake of breath. Powerful, concentrated and dense with

chewy but fresh blackberry and blackcurrant fruits, it will improve with...

https://shop.kapweine.chmailto:[email protected]://kapweine.ch/weingut/jordan.asphttps://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/northern-cape/mount-sutherland-sutherland-karoo-syrah-2016-42419https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/northern-cape/mount-sutherland-sutherland-karoo-syrah-2016-42419https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/swartland/porseleinberg-syrah-swartland-south-africa-2017-42398https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/swartland/porseleinberg-syrah-swartland-south-africa-2017-42398https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/kleinood-tamboerskloof-stellenbosch-south-africa-2016-42417https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/kleinood-tamboerskloof-stellenbosch-south-africa-2016-42417https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/western-cape/richard-kershaw-gps-series-syrah-western-cape-2016-42422https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/northern-cape/mount-sutherland-sutherland-karoo-syrah-2016-42419https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/south-africa/stellenbosch/kleinood-tamboerskloof-stellenbosch-south-africa-2016-42417




Points 92

Richard Kershaw, GPS Series Syrah, Western Cape, 2016

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/kershaw.asp

Yep, that’s it: that unmistakable oaked-Syrah fragrance of raspberry, violets,

juniper and clove. This is medium-bodied but it has a good sense of roundness and

generosity to the fruit, lifted by zingy acidity. There’s oodles of cashew and

vanilla creaminess and lots of cinnamon oak spice on the finish, but...

Points 92

The Ahrens Family, Rooiwijn, Paarl, South Africa, 2017

Baked red fruits on the nose, with more redcurrant, raspberry and cranberry on the

palate. It’s not overly full-bodied or extracted and has quite piercing acidity. You

can really feel the 15% Cinsault here, which gives it lift and perfume. Not the

deepest or most complex wine, but it has...

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Points 92

Waterkloof, Circumstance Syrah, Stellenbosch, 2017

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/waterkloof.asp

Lovely lifted freshness on the nose – a surprisingly aerial Syrah full of incense and

raspberry. This moves quickly onto the palate – the piercingly berry acidity is

electric, combining with the gathered tannin to deliver quite a physical impression.

Very much Syrah over Shiraz, it’s one to enjoy in...

Points 92

Wildeberg, Red, Franschhoek, South Africa, 2019

A glorious floral fragrance zooms out of the glass: raspberries, strawberries, roses

and violets all crushed together, like potpourri. Light-bodied and very fleet-of-foot

on the palate, a piercing vein of acidity runs through it and the tannins are discreet.

Aged in French demi-muids for 12 months, it also has 10%...

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Points 92

Oldenburg Vineyards, Syrah, Banghoek, Stellenbosch, 2016

http://kapweine.ch/weingut/oldenburg.asp

Aromatically speaking, this sits on the fence between Syrah and Shiraz in style. On

the palate, however, it’s more Syrah: it has a lightness of touch and a freshness that

gives it a good sense of drinkability. There’s a hint of rose to the juicy forest fruits

and a saline...

Points 92

Stark-Conde, Three Pines Syrah, Jonkershoek Valley, 2017

From a 27-year-old vineyard, the grapes were part-destemmed and the wine

matured in 300-litre French oak barrels (40% new) then bottled unfiltered and

unfined, with 2% Petite Sirah blended in. It has a lifted, spicy fragrance, with

cinnamon joining the berry fruits. Soft in the mouth, it’s not overly structured...

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Points 90

Strange Kompanjie Unlimited, Wandering Beeste Syrah, 2017

Savoury aromas with a little beef-stock note to the fruit. The palate is light-bodied

and dry, structured and well balanced, with a good sense of freshness and tension.

It’s not a complex wine, but nevertheless very drinkable and contemporary, with

only six months’ oak ageing. A very good budget option.
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Documents

Decanter Report - Kapweine · 2020. 10. 9. · Points 94. Luddite, Shiraz, Bot River, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2014 . On a different register, this has a deep, furry earthiness,