Contents

a Leading articles

Front cover picture: Kuleczka, Shutterstock.com

3 Editorial

K NEWS

8 Markets + Profiles

K FOCUSFacial care

10 Harald van der Hoeven, CLR: Dual approaches to skin nutrition –

milk-based active ingredient

12 Petra Schlegel, Greentech: The very mature skin –

a special demand placed on the marketing team

16 a Hagen Döring, Laura Gallego, Provital: All-in-one wrinkle filler and lip plumper

18 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: International launches

K MARKETING20 a Dr. Jan Jänichen, Dr. Straetmans:

React fast, with safe alternatives –

new preservative trends

22 a Interview with Andrea Weber, Babor, Dr. Joachim Gottfreund, Sebapharma, and Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp:What chance do middle sized companies have?

< 24 Star of the Month: A bath additive specially for men

K PRODUCTION26 a Prof. Dr. Andrea Wanninger, Theresia Köhler,

Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences: Silicones – Multitalented for cosmetics?

28 New Ingredients

30 a Claudia Balluff, Hohenstein Institute: Make-up removal – new methods for efficient testing

32 Packaging News

K SERVICES6 Download List

34 Essential Oils: Price list

36 Formulations: Body care

38 BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2014: Business partners – wanted – found

39 Events Diary

42 International B2B Exchange

44 Suppliers‘ Guide

48 Company Index

48 Advertisers‘ Index

49 Masthead Page

50 Trend statement by Dr. Véronique Delvigne, Lancôme International Paris

50 Preview

10 I Active ingredient

with milk-based nutrients

activates cellular

detoxification

12 I Very ma-

ture skin is

a challenge for

marketing

20 I Preser -

vatives: the

current situation

and safe

alter natives

30 I New methods

to help testing

make-up remover

www.cossma.com

NCD Ingredients GmbH – simply good

Ulanenplatz 12 · 63452 Hanau – Germany · Fon: +49 (0)6181-2702-60 · Fax: +49 (0)6181-2702-69

info@ncd-ingredients.de · www.ncd-ingredients.de

EVOSINA® – Unique, Natural, Bacteriostatic Active Ingredient

(INCI: Sodium Usnate)

VARI® STAN PE – Vegetable anti-bacterial Active Ingredient from Mangosteen

(INCI: Propanediol, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract)

HYDROVEG® R – Inspired by the Skin NMF

(INCI: Aqua, Sodium PCA, Diglycerin, Urea, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sorbitol, Lysine, PCA,

Allantoin, Lactic Acid)

AVOGELIA® – Active Avocado - Natural Active Ingredient, Emulsifier and Emollient

(INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aqua, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoyl

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Tocopheryl Acetate)

– AN UNMISTAKABLE CLASS

Variati® proposes a complete range of ingredients obtained from sustainable and renewable vegetable

sources such as Avocado, Mangosteen, Wheat and Rice, and from recycled material deriving from the

silk and wool manufacturing processes. Variati® Specialties: the ideal choice for Cosmetic Companies

that require ingredients with a high functional value.

61. SEPAWA CONGRESS

FULDA

15. - 17. OCTOBER 2014

NCD INGREDIENTS -

STAND 203-204

www.cossma.com

6 COSSMA 9I2014

SERVICES DOWNLOAD

www.cossma.com/download

Top-Downloads for September

• Suppliers:

Market Survey Ingredient

Suppliers

• Market data:

Natural Cosmetics in Russia

• Events:

In-Cosmetics Brasil

• Formulation:

Protective Styling with

Argan Oil

(Bayer Material Science)

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Additional information at

www.cossma.com/download

or you can just scan

the QR code!

Your access codes

for September:

User name: cossma9

Password: face

Downloads

COSSMA Download-Tip in September

Natural protection against skin aging

Alain Khaiat from

Seers Consulting

shows how, combin-

ing three natural

extracts, presents a

natural and yet ef-

fective approach to

anti-ageing protec-

tion.

COSSMA sub-

scribers can down-

load further back-

ground information.

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www.cossma.com

A drop of purity

Preservative-free fi lling for multidose bottles:a forward-thinking alternative

www.lameplastgroup.com

The future of ophthalmic preparations is preservative-free. A milestone that Lameplast Group has

now reached also in the sector of multidose bottles in partnership with Aptar Pharma for fi lling

its newest device: the Ophtalmic Squeeze Dispenser (OSD). This revolutionary multidose bottle is

now available for delivering preservative-free ophthalmic products till their very last drop of purity.

hicadv.it

www.cossma.com

In our October issue we will be fo-

cussing on formulations for anti-age-

ing products. In November it will

then be the turn of sprays and

foams. All of the information

published here has been care-

fully assembled; however nei-

ther the publishers nor the de-

velopers of these formulations

can accept responsibility for

their safety or accuracy.

Body care

The from sounds interesting. It also

sounds good in view of the success

enjoyed last year by convenience

products when a lot of in-shower

lotions were sold.

The by

should be equally successful, but more

in the sensorial field, where it has a

pleasant warming effect. On the other

hand, a massage effect combined with

a refreshing citrus fragrance is pro-

posed by with their .

For decorative colour effects in the

body care sector there are

and a

from . It all

started with facial masks, and the cate-

gory is now expanding to include other

body care products. , for ex-

ample, has put forward a . After

time to work it into the skin in winter

this could be a very airy undertaking.

And for anyone who wants to give

his imagination a free rein

is the exact

thing to use as a basic formulation.

*Access codes to download the formulations can be

found on the Internet panel on this page

SERVICES FORMULATIONS

Zen Massage Butter

Sprayable Body Lotion

Dance All Night Hydrating

Foot Care

Foamy Fun 2 Phase Facial

Cleanser

Shower Gel with Olive Oil

Detox Massage Body Cream Gel

Microemulsion Bath Oil

Moringa Butter Moisturizing

Body Masque

Body Oil-Spray Light Skin Feeling

Pearl Silver Body Milk

Bombshell Body Cream

Thermal Body Scrub

Shape & Toning Lotion

Effervescent Bubble

Bath Powder

Glossy Skin Serum

Natural Body Sculpting Oil

Body Lotion

Leg Beautifying & Relaxing

Gel-Cream

Fluid Universal Chassis

In-Shower Peeling Butter

Inolex

   

Additional information can be found

at www.health-and-beauty.com/

qr00301

or you can just scan the QR code!

Your access codes for September:

User name: cossma9

Password: care

DownloadsDown loads

www.cossma.com

BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH

Europes No. 1 autumn cosmetics trade fair

25th, 26th October 2014

Munich International Trade Fair

LOOKING FOR A PARTNER?BEAUTY FORUM connect – your b2b networking &

matching tool!

The big PLUS:

A Find national and international distributors and

business partners – fast and efficient

A Global marketing via the BEAUTY FORUM media

network

A Automatical matching of supply and demand

BEAUTY FORUM connect – free of charge for

exhibitors of 29th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH

FOR MORE INFORMATION JUST

SCAN QR CODE.

www.connect.beauty-forum.comHealth and Beauty Germany GmbHKarl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 | 76133 KarlsruheTel.: +49 (0)721 165-164 | messe@health-and-beauty.com

www.cossma.com

38 COSSMA 9I2014

SERVICES EVENTS

BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2014

Business partners

sought and found

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Alongside the core exhibits of

cosmetics, nail care, foot care

and medical beauty there

will be a focus on topical themes

such as Wellness & Spa and anti-

ageing. The current list of exhibitors is

now available at www.beauty-fairs.de/

muenchen.

The widespread range of informa-

tion at the exhibition will be comple-

mented with an extensive ongoing

training programme of congresses and

workshops, and a whole range of

championships such as the German

Make-up Championship or the World-

SkillsGermany, where the competitors

will be selected for the global champi-

onships in Brazil in 2015.

At the Medical Forum workshops

there will be a variety of presentations

by, for example, Dr. Frank Rösken on

the topic of The right methods for cor-

rect areas of the face and Dr. Hans

Lautenschläger who will talk about

rosacea. In the Trend Forum Karin

Hunkel will discuss natural mineral

make-up and Dr. Reinhold Brunke will

present the topic of cosmetics and

modern active ingredients.

The international Business Forum

(IBF) is a specially developed pro-

gramme aimed at promoting the busi-

ness of international clients of the

HEALTH & BEAUTY Group. The system

is aimed to generate and make new

business contacts in the German and

European cosmetics industry. This

year, among other companies, we will

have representatives from ISO Italia,

Verniglass, Mystic Nails and Organic

Nails.

Networking with

BEAUTY FORUM connect

Are you on the look-out for new

business partners and are you plan-

ning to successfully expand your busi-

ness nationally and internationally?

At www.connect.beauty-forum.com

companies that perhaps fit ideally into

your future plans will be presenting

themselves. If you have already regis-

tered – well here is a little surprise: as

a new service for you, because of the

strong demand, we will, alongside the

English version, set up the BEAUTY

FORUM connect on line platform such

that the German menu is also now

freely accessible. Currently the On line

Matchmaking Platform lists potential

business partners from 9 different

countries – more than 73 exhibitors/

buyers and 30 international visitors/

distributors.

Here is a foretaste of the advan-

tages that you could get from a proper-

ly planned visit, with the help of this in-

novative matchmaking tool, to this

year’s BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH.

Let’s say, for example, that the Hun-

garian contract manufacturer PL Beau-

ty Cosmetics is looking for a partner to

help in the contract manufacturing

business.www.plbeautycosmetics.com

From Austria we have a visit from

the ingredients supplier Tolure Cos-

metics. He is looking for international

licence partners.www.tolure-cosmetics.com

Gran.cosmetic, also from Austria, is

the Austrian general distributor for the

Italian phytocosmetics company

Vagheggi, covering Germany as well as

Austria, where sales are limited to cos-

metic salons and hotels with spa facil-

ities. The company is looking for well-

ness hotels with spa facilities.www.gran-cosmetic.com

Beautycare Emmen from the

Netherlands supplies professional

work clothing and is looking for new ar-

ticles suitable for the cosmetics manu-

facturing sector.www.beautycareemmen.nl

Busch & Co. produce rotary preci-

sion instruments and precision tools

for foot care and nail design, and are

looking for partners worldwide.www.busch.eu

Pemakür is a sales company spe-

cialising in professional nail design

and pedicure products such as milling

and grinding equipment of all sizes,

materials, shapes, numbers of teeth

and grit sizes. www.pemakuer.de

Dr. Schröder Cosmetica develops,

produces and sells cosmetic products

and also offers contract manufacturing

facilities.www.dr-schroeder-cosmetica.de

So there is no time to lose. Register

now and start networking via www.con-

nect.beauty-forum.com. AM

www.cossma.com

EVENTS SERVICES

COSSMA 9I2014 39

www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de

The German market for natural & organic cosmetics• Quarterly reports

• Best market coverage

• All distribution channels

• Trends, forecasts, consumer insights

BRANCHENMONITOR

NATURKOSMETIK

[Berlin,

Germany

October 7-8

2014 [www.naturkosmetik-verlag.deAdditional information at:

Available in English

www.cossma.com

48 COSSMA 9I2014

Dr. Schröder Cosmeticawww.dr-schroeder-cosmetica.de p. 38

Dr. Straetmanswww.dr-straetmans.de p. 20

ETMAwww.etma.org p. 32

Euromonitorwww.euromonitor.com p. 3

Evonikwww.evonik.com p. 26

Feierabend Online Dienstewww.feierabend.de p. 32

Gabawww.gaba-dent.com p. 32

Gaplastwww.gaplast.de p. 32

Gran.cosmeticwww.gran-cosmetic.com p. 38

Greentechwww.greentech.fr pp. 3, 12

Hochschule Niederrheinwww.hs-niederrhein.de p. 26

Hohenstein Institutwww.hohenstein.de p. 30

ISO Italiawww.isoitalia.com p. 38

Kneippwww.kneipp.de pp. 22, 24

Kunststoffwerke Adolf Hopfwww.hopf.de p. 8

L’Oréalwww.loreal.com p. 8

Merckwww.merck4cosmetics.com p. 28

MetaDesignwww.metadesign.com p. 8

Meyer-Hentschel Institutwww.mhmc.de p. 32

Mibellewww.mibellebiochemistry.com p. 32

Albéawww.albea-group.com p. 32

Annemarie Börlindwww.boerlind.com p. 18

Baborwww.babor.com p. 22

Bakicwww.bakic.com p. 32

Bärbel Drexelwww.baerbel-drexel.com p. 32

BASFwww.basf.com p. 26

Beauty Cosmeticswww.plbeautycosmetics.com p. 38

Beautycare Emmenwww.beautycareemmen.nl p. 38

Biesterfeldwww.biesterfeld.com p. 8

Brenntagwww.brenntag.de p. 28

Busch & Co.www.busch.eu p. 38

Carl Edelmannwww.edelmann.de p. 32

Cliniquewww.clinique.com p. 18

CLRwww.clr-berlin.com pp. 3, 10

Cotywww.coty.com p. 8

Crodawww.croda.com p. 28

DMwww.dm-drogeriemarkt.de p. 32

Dolce & Gabbanawww.dolcegabbana.com p. 18

Dow Corningwww.dowcorning.com p. 26

Company

Index

Advertisers’

Index

Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.

www.airproducts.com p. 28

Ama Laboratories

www.amalabs.com p. 31

Bayer Material Science AG

www.bayercosmetics.de p. 24

bb med. product GmbH

www.bb-kalkar.de p. 33

CLR Chem. Laboratorium

Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH

www.clr-berlin.com p. 2

A & E Connock

www.connock.co.uk S. 52

Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH

www.courage-khazaka.de p. 8

Dermatest GmbH

www.dermatest.de p. 29

Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH

www.flavex.com p. 14

Geka GmbH

www.geka-world.com p. 23

Greentech GmbH

www.greentechgmbh.de p. 9

Idice France

www.luxepack.com p. 25

KHK GmbH

www.lipcare.de/private-label p. 36

Kosmetik Konzept GmbH

www.kosmetik-konzept.de p. 36

Lameplast Spa

www.lameplast.it p. 7

Merck KGaA

www.merckgroup.com p. 19

NCD Ingredients GmbH

www.ncd-ingredients.de p. 5

Naturkosmetik Konzepte

www.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de p. 39

Nürnberg Messe GmbH

www.technopharm.de p. 13

Paul Kaders GmbH

www.paulkaders.de p. 8

Sabinsa Europe GmbH

www.sabinsaeurope.com p. 15

Dr. Sacher Kosmetik GmbH

www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de p. 43

Sappi Fine Paper Europe

www.sappi.com Loose Insert

Sepawa Vereinigung der Seifen-,

Parfüm- und Waschmittelfachleute e.V.

www.sepawa.com p. 35

Mintelwww.mintel.com pp. 8, 18, 28

Momentivewww.momentive.com p. 26

Mystic Nailswww.mysticnails.eu p. 38

Naturkosmetik Branchenkongresswww.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de p. 9

Organic Nailswww.organicnails.com p. 38

Originswww.origins.com p. 18

Pemakürwww.pemakuer.de p. 38

Provitalwww.provital.org pp. 3, 16

Pulpe de Viewww.pulpedevie.com p. 18

Rahnwww.rahn-group.com p. 28

Sappiwww.sappi.com p. 32

Sebapharmawww.dr-straetmans.de p. 22

Shiseidowww.shiseido.com p. 8

Stölzlewww.stoelzle.com p. 32

Sturm und Drangwww.sturmunddrang.de p. 8

Symrisewww.symrise.com p. 28

Tolure Cosmeticswww.tolure-cosmetics.com p. 38

Verniglasswww.veravalenti.com p. 38

Wackerwww.wacker.com p. 26

www.cossma.com

All-in-one

wrinkle and

lip filler

Can they compete?

A special demand

placed on SMEs

Silicones as a

multitalented

cosmetics ingredient

Make-up removers:

New ways to test

their efficacy

E 512 8 0

C O S M E T I C S

S P R AY T E C H N O L O GY

M A R K E T I N G

Focus: Facial care9 / 2 014

w w w . c o s s m a . c o m

Dr. Jan Jänichen

of Dr. Straetmans

provides an update

on the subject of

preservatives

VIP of the Month

www.cossma.com